Hot Patterns Princess Shirt Collar

There is a thread on PatternReview about this collar, which is tricky because it involves an inset corner. I’m a big fan of this pattern because it fits me well, but the charm of the style is all in the collar, so it’s a shame if that’s holding people back from making it. Pam Erny at Off The Cuff made the tutorial I used initially. I’m putting up these pictures because another angle could help someone!


1. Not all these markings appear on the pattern pieces, but I’ve marked the seam intersections on the fronts, collars, and facings.

A is the point of the collar inset. B is the intersection of the collar/lapel notch (there should be a notch for B on the pattern sheet.)

I am cutting my fronts on the bias, so don’t be confused by my pattern layout.                                                                                                                                                

collar stitching

2.Stitch the collar edges where the blue line is shown.  In all these photos, the markings and stitching lines have been drawn in blue so you can see them….I hope!

The notches on the neck edge match to the shoulder seam.

The corner on the neck edge is where you will pivot for the inside angle.

I’ve also notched the center back.                                                                                                                              

turned collar

3. The turned collar.          

the fateful clip

4. Pin or baste the neck edge of the collar and the bodice, right sides together, carefully matching the markings. Stitch, stopping at the mark at the inside angle.

Clip the shirt front to the dot.

Now you will pivot so that the edge of the front matches the remaining collar edge. The stitched edge of the collar will match the point below the lapel notch on the seam line.


5. This shows the pivot point from the other side. Dotted line shows the position of the collar underneath.

Stitch, through all layers, from the dot at the clip to the dot at the notch (it doesn’t matter if you stitch beyond the dot at the notch, but you’re not sewing anything together from that point)
markings on the facings
6. Markings and staystitching on the facings. I am only using the front facings. The HP reissue of this pattern has a back facing, which I think is redundant when you have a collar to hide your seam allowances in.
tuck the point
7. The point of the collar extends beyond the seamline. When pinning/basting the facings, you will need to tuck it out of the way.
neck edge

8. Skip this step and step 9 if you’re using the back facing. I’ve clipped the neck edge of the upper collar at the notches that match the shoulder seams.

collar neck edge
9. Again, skip this step if you’re using the back facing. I’ve turned up the seam allowance between the shoulder notches/clips and stitched about 1/4 inch from the edge.
This folded edge will be stitched in place after the rest of the collar assembly is complete.
clipping at the facing
10. Now stitch the facing to the front and collar, through all layers.
Stop at the point of the inside angle, clip the facing to the dot. Then pivot and stitch the rest of the seam.
If you’re omitting the back facing, stop at the shoulder seams.
11. Press and turn and press, press, press!  Collar complete!
Reward yourself with something nice.
The fashion illustration from the envelope looks different from the line drawing to me. My collar looks pretty close to the line drawing.

3 thoughts on “Hot Patterns Princess Shirt Collar

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