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Jacket A Month 1.5

December 28, 2010
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I’m so enthusiastic about this sewalong for many reasons –

1. I wear jackets all year round. In summer, especially, I’m bothered by over-cooled buildings. I need another layer to put on whenever I go inside.

2. There are a few wools in the stash, and I would like to use them up. Jacket = great way to do this.

3. Jackets are such great completer pieces for outfits. An additional challenge I’m setting myself is that each jacket should also be part of an outfit – pieces that are either already in the closet or that I will sew in addition to the jacket.  For the first cardi I made in the post below, I had enough fabric left over to make a co-ordinating tank using Marcy Tilton’s V8559. On a side note, I love this little tank. Something about the proportions of it are just right for me. I have only made de-Marcyed versions so far, adding a plain neck binding and extra length for a regular hem, but someday I’ll make one using her twisted neckband. Anyway, cardi + tank gave me a twinset, and paired with black ponte pants already in the closet, gives me a complete outfit.

As long as I was working with S4025, I wanted another cardigan. I have wanted one of those popular cardi wraps for about a year, but didn’t have the right fabric and the right pattern at the same time. I wanted a wrap like Kwik Sew 3693, where the fabric is draped around the neck. In many of these cardis, the fabric seems to drape from the bust…not the look I was after. So I redrafted the front of S4025 as shown. The black outline shows the original front pattern piece. The pink area shows the new outline.

The length of the extension at the neckline was derived from measuring the back neckline. For the medium size, this was 3 1/2 inches. The width of the extension depends on how much fabric you want around your neck. I used 3 inches. Add seam allowances to those measurements. For the point at the center front hem, draw an angled line. Don’t make it too close to the center front of the pattern piece. Remember that in the original design the lapel fills in the center a little. I decided to have my point dip about 4 inches below the hemline. Connect that point back to the side seam.

To assemble: Sew back & front together at the shoulders, right sides together, stopping at the point where the back neckline intersects the shoulder seam.  Then sew the center back seam of the neckline extensions you drafted on the front, right sides together. Press open. Lastly, sew the neckline seam of the extensions to the back neckline, right sides together. Continue with the pattern directions for inserting the sleeves. Do a clean finish (I chose to fold up 1/2 inch, then fold again to enclose the raw edge) around the outer edges and you are done.

Here’s the finished result, which I don’t think I’m going to count in my jacket quota. If I do, I’ll only give it a half value. So it is jacket 1.5.

Next, I want to make a real jacket. There are lots of exciting patterns being discussed at Stitcher’s Guild. Other people have much better eyes for style than I have! While I’m waiting for them to point out the cutest styles out there, I’m going to  make the popular Chanel-style Vogue 7975.

I bought the tweedy silk and all the lining, shoulder pads, etc. over a year ago, and could not decide on a pattern. Well, I don’t think I can go wrong with this classic. Here’s my fabric. I plan to come up with some sort of trim using the fabric itself or unravelled threads.

A muslin is in progress now – I have made this pattern before, but in a knit in a larger size, so there may be a few bugs to be worked out.

Fun sewalong! Fun, fun, fun!!

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2 Comments leave one →
  1. December 29, 2010 4:36 pm

    Really love that little cardigan. I’m going to count the little cardigans as whole jackets otherwise I’ll never reach 12!

  2. Lala permalink
    December 30, 2010 6:14 pm

    What a nice adaptation of the basic cardi wrap concept. And I like that fact that you stitched the shoulders and neckline as separate entities. That’s the only way to get it right.

    So many people complete the center back seam then stitch from one shoulder point right around to the other and can’t figure out why their shawl collar doesn’ look right.

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