Jacket Trim

The silk tweed I’m using for V7975 isn’t really loosely woven, but it’s loose enough that it seemed prudent to use fusible underlining. I hate fusing, so this was a real demonstration of commitment on my part. I’d rather baste underlining any day, and usually prefer the results. I just don’t like the idea of adding glue to my fabric. But there are times when fusing seems necessary, and this was one of them. I bit the bullet, standing at the ironing board for about 3 hours. Afterwards it felt great to sit with my feet up for awhile. If I’d had a box of bon bons, the scene would have been complete.

It was also necessary to do a zig-zag overcasting of all the seam allowances, another boring chore. Even though this jacket will be fully lined, the fabric was ravelly enough that I didn’t trust the fusing alone to keep the fabric edges together. So all the edges were overcast.

Finally, yesterday, a couple of pieces were actually sewn together!  The fronts have been stitched, and the pockets have been trimmed and then sewn on by hand.

I’m making the trim for this jacket using some suggestions from Nancy Ericson’s jackets workbook. If you’re serious about making classic fitted jackets, this book is full of tips. The pattern used for demonstration is Nancy’s own 1945, but most of the advice could be applied to any pattern, like the Vogue I’m working on. Nancy’s site is Fashion Sewing Group.

The trim will go across the top of the pockets and all around the center front/neck opening. One misleading thing about the envelope illustration for this pattern is that they’ve got the scale of the pockets all wrong. The pockets are much smaller than you would think. I decided to leave them the original size, but this is the kind of detail you’d like to be able to judge before cutting your fabric!

This trim was made by cutting the selvedge edges into strips 1/2″ wide.  Two strips are butted together with the cut edges to the outside, and the selvedge edges are zig-zagged together on the machine. For this trim, fringing the cut edges 3/8″ looks right. From my leftover fabric, I unravelled the lengthwise threads (warp? weft? I don’t know) to create the braid that was hand stitched down the center. It’s a plain old 3-part braid.

Since the warp and weft (don’t need to know which is which in this sentance!) of this fabric are different colors, it gives the trim more interest, but it’s still perfectly matched since it was created from the fabric itself. In this case, that’s really the way to go because that navy leans toward the violet and would have been difficult to match.

Tomorrow I go back to work so progress will be slower – but I’m glad to have the really tedious prep work out of the way! If I can sew a seam or two a day it won’t be long at all before this jacket is done.


2 thoughts on “Jacket Trim

  1. I love the trim you made for your Chanel type jacket. It is beautiful. I have a unfinished Chanel Jacket that is languishing because I have not been able to come up with the perfect trim.

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