JAM #2 is soooo tasteful. I am reminded of one of Lily Tomlin’s characters from Laugh-In. Remember Mrs. Audley Earbore III, the tasteful lady?
It’s so liberating to finally have this fabric made up! I fell in love with this silk tweed and bought it with all the fusibles and every other jacket ingredient about two years ago. Then I stopped dead because due to pattern indecision. Actually, I was looking for a pattern with a specific type of front dart that I thought would play up the herringbone pattern.
As it turns out, I was mistaken about how pronounced the herringbone is. It really doesn’t stand out, so I’m happy to have settled on a classic pattern for this beloved fabric. This is my first Chanel-inspired jacket, so it is a test. If I end up wearing it often, I might try the full-on couture construction for another one.
So much for the background information – on to the details about this jacket. I won’t be reviewing, since this pattern has a gazillion reviews already and I have nothing new to add about the pattern itself. I did make the pattern once before in a fulled wool jersey, and did review that version just to show the pattern worked up unlined in a stable knit. You can check out the review. That teal version on the right is the knit one.
Alterations – I lengthened ½ inch above the waist and raised the armscye about 3/8 inch. I also ended up inserting a thin shoulder pad which was not called for. The pad was thin enough that no alteration was needed to accommodate it. Also, as is usual for me, the hip is a size and a half larger than the shoulders – in a longer length, it would need to be two sizes larger at the hem. With princess seaming, it’s easy to make that transition very gracefully.
The center front and facing were altered to have a shallow V which I like better on me than the high round necks. The v was cut with a slight scoop. I’ve read that this helps it hug the body better than a V cut in a straight line.
Construction details – I am charmed by the square back facing for some reason, so I followed the pattern instructions and construction order. Sometime during the jacket-a-month project I want to bag a lining, which will be a new technique for me. Since this jacket did not have a standard facing set-up, it seemed wiser to just follow the instructions and insert the lining their way. Besides, hand-sewing doesn’t bother me.
I used fusible underlining only because this fabric was somewhat loosely woven and very ravelly. In general I prefer not to fuse; I just like my results better the other way. I also decided to skip the problem of making buttonholes in this fabric and went with cardigan styling.
The V neck made the application of the trim easy, since there were no sharp corners to navigate. I wrote about the construction of the trim in the last post. Anyone looking at the trim would know it was not made by machine, and I think the handmade quality enlivens this very conservative jacket. I’m really a trim novice, and purchased several other trim ingredients that didn’t make the final cut. Maybe they will appear on other jackets later this year.
You can see the nice curve from the two piece sleeve.
I may add a hook and eye to keep the front closed. That will be decided after wearing a few times.
I have a fantasy that if I wear this jacket in the right part of town, I might be mistaken for a lady who lunches. Other ladies in silk jackets will see me in it and ask me to be on committees, and they will give me a nick-name that ends in i like Kiki or Bibi. This storyline ends up with me needing to sew a formal gown for a gala next fall. I’ll be sure to post here when I need your pattern suggestions for the gown!