When the JAM sew-along began, there was a lot of discussion about this pattern, which is OOP. When I was moaning about not being able to find it in my size, Sigrid generously sent me her copy. That made me want to be sure to make something worthy.
Inspiration: Back in 2007, there were many, many seamstresses making up this cute retro-reminiscent jacket. Vonnevo made many lovely versions and won an award, too! Someone on Stitcher’s guild posted a link to Vonne’s photo album (check it out here) and I was hooked. I think it was the buttons that really got my juices flowing, and I felt like the ruched collar would not be beyond my abilities, so both of those features were incorporated into my jacket.
The saga: Because a sewing sister sent me this pattern, I wanted to make it up as soon as possible, so I could pass it on (more about that below). That way someone else would have time to include it in theirJAM.But deciding on and finding the right fabric took time. There was nothing (incredible!) in the stash that was just right, except possibly a black pique, but I didn’t want black for this pattern. I bought what I thought was a perfect cream-on-cream little windowpane plaid, but it came out of pre-treatment all limp and drapey, so it has gone to serve time in stash. Finally this bright aqua pique turned up that seemed just right.
The pattern calls for lining, and I decided to use Shannon Gifford’s Stitch & Flip method to line. This is such a useful technique, since you end up with the pattern pieces underlined as well, and that gives nice body without fusing! I hate fusing. Another thing that makes this method easier than the standard, is that you don’t have to do a lot of sewing of one slippery lining layer to another. Lining pieces are mostly sewn in a sandwich with your nice stable fashion fabric. The disadvantage to this method is that you can’t fit as you sew, but I had made a muslin.
The muslin pointed out that I needed to lower the bust a bit and cut a size larger at the hip. I also lengthened it a good 2 and a half inches. This is a very short and boxy jacket. I attempted to temper the boxiness with some shaping on the vertical seams (Vonne did a great job with this), but must not have gone far enough with the adjustments, since the fit is still plenty boxy.
Making the buttons: Vonne used two metal rings she ingeniously connected to make the buttons. I was sure there had to be something else at the hardware store to make them easier. Sure enough, there are nylon washers out there the right size with a big enough hole in the middle to thread the fabric strips through. The Spouse found these for me at an old-fashioned real hardware store. Home Depot didn’t have them. I made bound buttonholes to accommodate the outsize buttons.
For the ruched collar, I used Pam Erny’s new Pro-Woven Super Crisp interfacing on the collar facing. That seems to be just right, and I don’t think my collar will ever collapse. Pam’s interfacings are available at Fashion Sewing Supply.
It took over a month to get this jacket done! Not that anything was difficult, I just did not have much sewing time. I get bored easily, so some quick & easy projects are in my future to pump up the sewing mojo.
Outfit for this jacket – this works with the charmeuse blouse I made for Jacket #3 and navy Hot Patterns Slouchy Jeans that were completed while I was waiting for the lining to arrive. I am also going to sew a white knit tank to wear with this. (one of the quickie projects coming up)
If you are still reading, you deserve a prize! Here’s my offer. Sigrid kindly sent this pattern to me, and I’d like to send it on to one of you. Sizes in this envelope are 14-16-18-20. Leave a comment here this week if you would like to have this pattern. A name will be drawn next Monday, at 6:00 pm US Central time. I will ship anywhere, worldwide, so come on and leave me a note!