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JAM #11

November 6, 2011

Jacket #11 is another Anything But Ordinary. This is such a simple jacket which lends itself to interesting fabric. And since it’s simple, it goes together quickly.

In one of her newsletters Louise suggested making an ABO ensemble, using the pattern for both a shirt and jacket, but cutting the collar of the jacket a half inch shorter so that the shirt collar peeks out all around. Since I had bought this lovely Japanese cotton from Louise specifically to make an ABO, I went stash diving to see what there was for the shirt portion. There was a nice mid-weight silk that reminds me a lot of chambray. They looked good together!

I made the shirt first. Simple pattern + plain fabric can be pretty boring, so I decided to channel stitch the collar and center front openings. All was going smoothly until…..slice….I had my first serger accident and nicked a three-quarter inch V out of one of the sleeves. What to do? If it had been in an inconspicuous place I would have darned it and figured no one but me would ever know. But there it was, right on the front of the sleeve, saying “Hi, I’m your big fat mistake and I’ll be your design opportunity this evening”.

So, the nick got patched. To make it look more intentional, I duplicated the channel stitching from the collar on the patch.  And to keep the fluidity of the silk, the edges were frayed instead of turned under. To further the illusion that I did it all on purpose, patches were scattered randomly over the top.

I was pretty disgusted with myself when I made the boo-boo, but now I’ve gotten over that and actually like the way it turned out. Three cheers for cooling-off periods!

Here are the front and back views of the shirt. With patches. And the CF is fastened with snaps.

On to the jacket. Even though this was planned to be worn over a silk shirt, I wanted to line the jacket to give it a little extra substance and so I could wear it over other things. I just loooooove the print and think it will be worn a lot. Around this time, Sewing on the Edge had a post about her “cheater” lining method that she used on her fab corduroy jacket. Just what was needed!

The lining meant that I could put shoulder pads in and they would be hidden. Louise is a big shoulder pad fan…that is, a big fan of the pads, not a fan of big pads…and always recommends them. What a difference it makes! Sets the jacket squarely on the shoulders and improves the hang.

My main issue with many Cutting Line and Sewing Workshop patterns, the ones without darts, is that they hike up in the front and I don’t know how to do a FBA without adding a dart. I tried adding a bust dart on a previous iteration and did not like the outcome at all. It went in the trash. So for this one, I decided that I would go for an angled hem, and cut it about 2 inches longer at center front. Well, it hangs straight. So I am pleased with that but would still like to know how to do an FBA and maintain the perfectly perpendicular CF and hemline that these designs are supposed to have.

Here’s the stacked collar shot. I love these buttons on this fabric!

I feel like I’m getting a handle on art to wear that I’m comfortable in. This ensemble has had its first outing and I didn’t regret wearing it one bit.

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18 Comments leave one →
  1. November 6, 2011 10:38 pm

    Your sewing always inspires me Robyn and this set is great. I need to perfect the ABO pattern for myself since the size small is way too big for me and the collar way too high. ‘

    Classy save too!

    • November 8, 2011 3:17 am

      Thank you! That collar is quite high, but I like the option to flip it down. You are expert with these patterns, Terri- surely you can alter it to fit?

  2. November 6, 2011 10:45 pm

    Wow, Robyn…this is beautiful! Great combination of fabrics, great serger save! I had one the other day, but luckily had just enough fabric to recut a sleeve. I like your save better!

  3. November 7, 2011 12:01 am

    A beautiful set – design element and all.

  4. November 7, 2011 1:02 am

    LOVE your ‘purposeful’ patches! Love the whole shirt. Love the jacket. Love the combo. Yup…love!

  5. November 7, 2011 2:05 am

    Robyn, I love what you did with that blue shirt! It was the perfect solution to a potential wadder situation. I also love the jacket – simple lines + gorgeously detailed fabric = perfection.

  6. joan71 permalink
    November 7, 2011 2:37 am

    Robyn, that is such a nice combo and your ‘save’ works wonderfully. Smart choice using silk for the shirt,……..less bulk is a good thing.

  7. Lydia permalink
    November 7, 2011 2:47 am

    Robyn…..try the Singer “Perfect Fit” book. It has a great spread about FBA without making or using a bust dart. Will also help w/bottom of shirt riding up. I will use this when I make said pattern. BTW: the outfit is gorgeous………Lydia

  8. Martha permalink
    November 7, 2011 5:38 am

    Wow, wow and wow! I absolutely love both garments. Totally inspired, artful and elegant. I just returned from the Louise Cutting seminar in AL and now I am thoroughly enjoying this eye candy you’ve posted. Thanks for sharing.

  9. Martha permalink
    November 7, 2011 5:40 am

    BTW, did you cut ABO straight from the pattern for both pieces (except for the collar and FBA lengthening)? I have this pattern but haven’t made it. I am not busty but want a similar look to yours. Perhaps I should lengthen a jacket?

    • November 7, 2011 1:23 pm

      Martha, the only other change I made was lengthening about an inch overall before adding extra to the center front. Im tall and need the length. Oops, I lie. I also did a forward shoulder adjustment. Since the style is oversized and unfitted, there’s not a whole lot to adjust.

  10. November 7, 2011 8:39 am

    Beautiful set. I love the japanese fabric. You are very inspiring.

  11. November 7, 2011 9:23 am

    Well done with the save! It looks fabulous – and unless you tell no-one will ever know (and we all promise not to tell)

  12. November 7, 2011 9:27 am

    Wow! Great set and a great save:) Love both of those fabrics. You are inspiring me.

  13. Kathryn, aka fzxdoc permalink
    November 7, 2011 1:29 pm

    Absolutely gorgeous, Robyn, Both pieces look great together or standing alone. And what a wonderful save on your silk blouse! Good for you! You used such beautiful fabrics, and your save made the shirt even more interesting.

  14. November 7, 2011 1:58 pm

    This is so beautiful! And the combo is great.

  15. November 7, 2011 5:45 pm

    Lovely blouse/jacket combo. The patches on the blouse is a wonderful technique to add texture and interest and if it hides a boo boo, who would know? I also like the channel stitching on the collar and front. Gorgeous fabric fabric for the jacket. It is really shown to best advantage by the simple jacket pattern you chose.

  16. Steph permalink
    November 18, 2011 7:07 pm

    This looks fabulous!

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