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one last jacket

December 29, 2011

Finishing 2011 on a high note….the Paco Peralta T-Coat! This is my first pattern from Paco and it was a joy to work with.

Back when the JAM started around this time last year, Fabric Mart was running a special on their Shetland wools and it seemed like everyone was buying some. There were some awesome coats made at the time. I got a piece of the alpine green, because I’ve always wanted a loden coat and this is probably as close as I’ll get. It was the only piece of fabric I specifically bought for JAM, so it gives closure on the project to actually make it up.

For the style, I wanted something classic. Coats don’t get a lot of wear here, and it needs to work for many years. I also wanted a hint of folkloric flavor. Paco’s design, with its straight T shape, front yoke, and stand-up collar, has both those qualities. This and other patterns are sold in Paco’s etsy shop – you can see his sample coat and more information about the pattern there.

About the pattern: It came hand-drawn on vellum-type paper. Sizing is S-M-L. 5/8 inch seam and hem allowances are included, and there are separate lining pieces. There are no instructions.

I was pretty cocky about the no-instructions part, since there were so few pattern pieces and because the pattern is so well-drafted and marked. In the end, it was fortunate that Tany had already made this coat and posted her order of construction in her review. I also followed her recommendataions for interfacing.

Construction notes – a back stay and thin shoulder pads were added.

It was a pleasure to make this coat. Everything went together so well! It was so much fun that I’m thinking of how to adapt the pattern to be a top and maybe a robe. One of the really nice features is the way the sizes are drawn out on the pattern paper. You know how with most multi-sized patterns, if you cut out one size, you loose important cutting lines for the other sizes? The way this pattern is drawn, the sizes are nested. If you cut the largest size (yes, I actually cut it!), all the smaller sizes are still there, intact. So if I want to make a top, and think the size M has enough ease, it’s all there for me. Nice touch!

The only change I will make in future is that I would lower the pockets. I didn’t think to check the position of these before making up, and they’re a little high on me. That’s a pretty small quibble.

Here’s a happy girl in her new coat, ready for 2012!

(Thinks she’s an extra in The Sound of Music)

29 Comments leave one →
  1. ReAnn Scott permalink
    December 29, 2011 5:50 pm

    Great coat! I guess I would be size larger than his L – certainly would have to do a full-bust adjustment. Does the pattern give ‘finished measurements’?


    • December 29, 2011 6:37 pm

      Thanks! No finished measurements given. It is roomy, though, so you might be surprised.

    • December 29, 2011 9:09 pm

      ReAnn, I just measured the pattern and the Large is about 48 inches at the top of the side seam. It’s hard to put a figure on the actual bust measurement because the armhole is pretty deep; a person could wear a lot of layers underneath if needed.

      • ReAnn Scott permalink
        December 29, 2011 9:15 pm

        Robyn – what size in ready-to-wear are you? is you don’t mind my asking. I also wear a C-cup, which I know require a FBA.

      • December 30, 2011 5:15 pm

        In tops, I’d take a 16 or 18 in RTW. I’m a D. Hope that helps!

      • Patti B permalink
        December 31, 2011 2:59 pm

        Thanks so much for measuring and your sizing info — now I don’t have to ask! 😉

      • January 2, 2012 7:14 pm

        Ha! You are welcome.

  2. December 29, 2011 6:18 pm

    Gorgeous! Such a deceptively simple and beautiful design!

  3. Shams permalink
    December 29, 2011 6:22 pm

    That is really lovely! I like the simplicity of it. Alas, Paco’s patterns are too small for me, too.

  4. December 29, 2011 6:27 pm

    Robyn, you rock. Your coat is wonderful. I am working on one for my little sister has well.

  5. December 29, 2011 6:36 pm

    Beautiful coat.

  6. joan71 permalink
    December 29, 2011 6:39 pm

    Robyn, such a classic look on you. Enjoy wearing it for years?

  7. Laura permalink
    December 29, 2011 6:57 pm

    What a great one! I definitely must get this pattern now.

  8. Patti B permalink
    December 29, 2011 7:08 pm

    Robyn, I am so glad that you posted your fabulous coat! I have the pattern ready to cut out and will definitely use both your advice and Tany’s on the sewing part.

  9. December 29, 2011 7:14 pm

    That is one lovely coat and you did such a wonderful job! Hopefully, we’ll have some cold days for you to totally enjoy it. (However, I’m lovin this almost 70 degree day today 🙂 )

    • December 29, 2011 9:02 pm

      No kidding! Some yard work is getting done this week for sure.

  10. December 29, 2011 8:17 pm

    Thank you very much Robyn. I love your version. It looks like a classic, but simultaneously it looks very modern, almost futuristic. Personally, I love the “T” shape .. It’s primitive, used by ancient civilizations, but always contemporary. HAPPY NEW YEAR !!!

  11. Carolyn permalink
    December 29, 2011 8:38 pm

    Very nice coat Robyn. I’m not familiar with those patterns but will have to check them out.

  12. December 29, 2011 10:30 pm

    Robyn…it looks very, very nice! I have joined you in SAM and I am very excited! I haven’t been sewing much but this year is the year of the machine! 🙂

  13. December 29, 2011 10:32 pm

    Great looking coat

  14. December 30, 2011 12:00 am

    This shape and cut is so fabulous….great job!

  15. December 30, 2011 2:09 pm

    Robyn….what a fabulous coat! I have the pattern and hope mine turns out as lovely as yours 🙂

  16. December 30, 2011 2:39 pm

    That is an absolutely fabulous coat! It is so classic, and will never go out of style. Awesome!

  17. December 30, 2011 6:16 pm

    Beautiful coat it will last you for years to come. Health to wear. I’ve made a few Paco designs, they always feel special.

    • January 2, 2012 7:16 pm

      Thank you, Ruth! I’m looking forward to trying another of these patterns.

  18. December 31, 2011 6:46 pm

    A classic look, and beautiful on you! Congratulations on ending the year on such a high note – may 2012 be as productive 🙂

  19. Martha permalink
    January 7, 2012 8:14 pm

    I have been making jacket muslins for over a week now, hoping to find THE jacket. My mind keeps returning to these pictures of your jacket. So I’m definitely ordering it right now. Thanks for the inspiration. Martha

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