one last jacket

Finishing 2011 on a high note….the Paco Peralta T-Coat! This is my first pattern from Paco and it was a joy to work with.

Back when the JAM started around this time last year, Fabric Mart was running a special on their Shetland wools and it seemed like everyone was buying some. There were some awesome coats made at the time. I got a piece of the alpine green, because I’ve always wanted a loden coat and this is probably as close as I’ll get. It was the only piece of fabric I specifically bought for JAM, so it gives closure on the project to actually make it up.

For the style, I wanted something classic. Coats don’t get a lot of wear here, and it needs to work for many years. I also wanted a hint of folkloric flavor. Paco’s design, with its straight T shape, front yoke, and stand-up collar, has both those qualities. This and other patterns are sold in Paco’s etsy shop – you can see his sample coat and more information about the pattern there.

About the pattern: It came hand-drawn on vellum-type paper. Sizing is S-M-L. 5/8 inch seam and hem allowances are included, and there are separate lining pieces. There are no instructions.

I was pretty cocky about the no-instructions part, since there were so few pattern pieces and because the pattern is so well-drafted and marked. In the end, it was fortunate that Tany had already made this coat and posted her order of construction in her review. I also followed her recommendataions for interfacing.

Construction notes – a back stay and thin shoulder pads were added.

It was a pleasure to make this coat. Everything went together so well! It was so much fun that I’m thinking of how to adapt the pattern to be a top and maybe a robe. One of the really nice features is the way the sizes are drawn out on the pattern paper. You know how with most multi-sized patterns, if you cut out one size, you loose important cutting lines for the other sizes? The way this pattern is drawn, the sizes are nested. If you cut the largest size (yes, I actually cut it!), all the smaller sizes are still there, intact. So if I want to make a top, and think the size M has enough ease, it’s all there for me. Nice touch!

The only change I will make in future is that I would lower the pockets. I didn’t think to check the position of these before making up, and they’re a little high on me. That’s a pretty small quibble.

Here’s a happy girl in her new coat, ready for 2012!

(Thinks she’s an extra in The Sound of Music)


29 thoughts on “one last jacket

  1. Great coat! I guess I would be size larger than his L – certainly would have to do a full-bust adjustment. Does the pattern give ‘finished measurements’?


  2. Robyn, I am so glad that you posted your fabulous coat! I have the pattern ready to cut out and will definitely use both your advice and Tany’s on the sewing part.

  3. That is one lovely coat and you did such a wonderful job! Hopefully, we’ll have some cold days for you to totally enjoy it. (However, I’m lovin this almost 70 degree day today 🙂 )

  4. Thank you very much Robyn. I love your version. It looks like a classic, but simultaneously it looks very modern, almost futuristic. Personally, I love the “T” shape .. It’s primitive, used by ancient civilizations, but always contemporary. HAPPY NEW YEAR !!!

  5. Robyn…it looks very, very nice! I have joined you in SAM and I am very excited! I haven’t been sewing much but this year is the year of the machine! 🙂

  6. I have been making jacket muslins for over a week now, hoping to find THE jacket. My mind keeps returning to these pictures of your jacket. So I’m definitely ordering it right now. Thanks for the inspiration. Martha

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