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SAM #2

January 8, 2012

I hustled up on this shirt so that it could go in the PatternReview Stash Contest. Other contestents, be afraid…I have sewn a whole 2.5 yards.

This is basically the same pattern as SAM #1, but with lots of tweaks. Thoughtful Ottobre gives you lots of options with the basic shirt/blouse in their 2-2006 Women’s issue: sleeves, no sleeves, camp collar, collar with stand, lots of darts, fewer darts, and so on. This time I made the version with the collar and stand, and further refined the features and fit from SAM #1.

Alterations: The yoke was made deeper both into the back and the front, and the shoulders were made just a wee bit narrower. Altering was easy since seam allowances were never added to the pattern tracing.

Other changes: The pattern has a simple cut-on facing which is just what you want sometimes. I wanted to experiment with a cut-on mock band, and used the instructions provided by Liana in her tutorial. One of the nice things about this method is that the band is self-interfaced – saves time, aggravation, and gives a very pleasing result! In addition, there were cosmetic changes like the spade hem, the angled shape of which was echoed in the shape of the pocket and cuffs.

For the placket, I used the two-piece method shown here by Pam Erny.  This photo set from Sigrid seems to show the same technique more clearly. This was a lot easier for me than the usual one-piece placket and less bulky than the “magic plackets” where one fat binding strip is used.

Other details – the collar band on the pattern is squared off, not rounded, which is much easier to sew. Yes, I want to practice the standard rounded collar stand, too, but am saving that for later. The collar itself was re-drafted to one piece like the collars in Cutting Line Designs patterns – less bulk in the points, and puts the undercollar on the bias. With this method, you end up with a seam in the center back of the undercollar, and if anyone ever sees it, they will see cool chevrons because of the bias.

When cutting out, I skootched the CB away from the fold so I could make a pleat.

When I was putting in the hem, I thought of those little triangles extolled by David Page Coffin as part of classic shirtmaking. I’ve never seen the little triangles in real life, so wasn’t sure how they were supposed to look. In this application, they’re supposed to cover the transition from a flat-felled seam all pressed over to one side, and the hem where you have to snip,flip, or fold the uppermost seam allowance in order to turn up the hem. This is what I came up with. Does anyone know if these look right?

This is now the 4th time that I’ve made this pattern, and the fit is refined to the point that it’s a solid TNT. Actually, I should get some photos of it on me so I can see the back before giving it that status. When the photographer is in the mood, I’ll do that. If it looks good, I’ll make a new tracing WITH seam allowances and maybe get it a special colored bag to live in. It really deserves the best.

Additional details:

  • fabric is very nice cotton shirting that came from Super Textiles, I think.
  • interfacing is Fashion Sewing Supply’s sew-in Pro-Woven Standard. I interfaced both sides of the collar, stand, and cuffs – two layers gives the right amount of body for me. The front band was self-interfaced.
  • Cuffs attached using the Fashion Incubator’s tutorials – links are included in the SAM#1 post.
  • Collar attached using the Debbie & Belinda method, which is has a lot in common with the Fashion Incubator cuff. Worked great, and I don’t know if I’ll search for any other collar methods.

And now to critique time.

The fabric has lots of pretty colors but is an irregular stripe. I turned my brain inside out trying to match it, but did a bad job. Neither the front band nor the sleeve plackets ended up matching the way I thought they would. Does anyone know of any tips for matching irregular stripes?

And I still need a bit of practice on the plackets. Looks like I didn’t get them absolutely straight, and there are small tucks on the inside that I was too lazy to unpick and re-sew. I never like re-sewing things with small seam allowances – seems like they just get more raggedy and can look worse when “fixed” than they did before re-sewing. Besides, they don’t show on the outside.

Next up: jeans to go with this shirt. Starting from scratch.

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12 Comments leave one →
  1. Thread Ov Metal permalink
    January 8, 2012 5:23 pm

    Those sleeve plackets look crazy good! I hope to try that!

  2. Anonymous permalink
    January 8, 2012 7:41 pm

    What a nice shirt. I love the chevron undercollar, and matching an irregular stripe is horrid – yours looks beautifully balanced.
    Your triangles look similar to some I have seen in the more $ men’s shirts, maybe bigger on the inside. There does not seem to be any one way of doing them – some are folded over the hem, some are more “patches” like yours

  3. January 8, 2012 7:42 pm

    Sorry ,I didn’t mean to be anonymous

  4. January 8, 2012 8:03 pm

    I noticed none of your criticisms when I looked at the picture of your very pretty blouse. Each garment made has it’s own journey and I’m sure that the things you learned making this shirt will be applied to future garments. And I’m sure that the shirt will work well in your wardrobe. Loved your first line of this post, btw!

  5. January 8, 2012 8:43 pm

    I love the fabric and can see this with a lovely pair of jeans. Good luck with your jeans.

  6. January 8, 2012 9:21 pm

    Oohhh, this turned out exceptionally well – congratulations!!! Obviously a lot of time spent thinking about the details which has paid off. And a solid TNT – you won’t know yourself now…

  7. January 8, 2012 10:22 pm

    Wow, so detailed and crisp. Bravo!

  8. January 9, 2012 1:38 am

    I think it looks very nice indeed! Good job! 🙂

  9. Martha permalink
    January 9, 2012 3:12 am

    What a crisp, elegant shirt. And the details appear to be quite beautiful despite your critique.

  10. January 9, 2012 8:28 am

    Love your 2nd SAM. I have not started the 1st yet.
    Pretty fabric and gorgeaous details. Congratulations
    Thanks for Debbie ‘s Tutorial. I’ve bookmarked it this time so it won’t get lost.

  11. January 10, 2012 5:06 pm

    Love this!! I pinned it to Pinterest here:

  12. January 19, 2012 10:12 pm

    “skootched” – love it! The inside of this shirt looks as good as the outside.

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