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More Paco Peralta and SAM #5

April 21, 2012

So this is the knit that all the fuss is about. See how useful it is? It’s got a great geometric print that I think is kinda sophisticated. It has all the neutrals – gray, black, taupe and can go with just about anything. I got this in Austin on PR day and we bought every inch in the store, so I don’t want to waste it on an unproven pattern, or one beyond my skill.

I believe the pattern has been found, and it is Paco Peralta’s drape front top. Here’s my trial version, made up without any changes or alterations except cutting the hip a little wider. The pattern is sized S-M-L, and based on the sizing measurements, I debated about grading up to an XL. The pattern can be made either with knits or wovens, with the only change being that the drape piece is cut on the bias for wovens. Since I was thinking knits, I decided to go ahead and try the large. That turned out just fine. In fact, if I try this pattern in a woven, I think I will still use the L and add some extra to the side seam allowances for fitting.

The pattern went together beautifully and quickly. I haven’t sewn any of the other cowl/drape tops that are very popular right now, but the difference with this one is that the V inset for the cowl piece is very deep, almost at waist level, and the legs of the V extend into the armscyes, not the shoulder seam. I love the little cap sleeves and think they do a lot to make this a flattering style for me. That said, when I use the special fabric, I plan to add sleeves.

There are no directions with the pattern, but this one is pretty easy to figure out. I serged the portion of the cowl that acts as the facing, but you could leave it unfinished as long as your fabric doesn’t run. For the back neck and armscye edges, I used a very narrow binding in self fabric.

The finished top doesn’t slip around on my shoulders, or splay open to show bra straps like some knit tops do, so I’m very pleased. I’ll be making it in the special fabric, but right now I’m a little frustrated with knits and am having a bit of a time out.  The very cute “Martina” crossover top in the last Ottobre Woman just barely missed the wearable mark. I want to make it again, with alterations, but knowing myself it is a good time to walk away from the knits for a little bit.

So I made up a CLD pattern that has been waiting patiently – The Blouse Perfected – and even though it says it’s a blouse, for my purposes it is Shirt #5. There are several views in the envelope – the one here, with no cuff and cute little side vents at the hem, a full-on shirt with cuff and sleeve plackets and shirt tails, optional vertical darts (with special instructions on placing your darts), and an artsy draped-front style for you adventuresome types. I started with the quickest version just to get an idea of the fit. The shirts are loose-fitting. If you want more shape, add the darts. But if you’re looking for a very fitted shirt, this is not your pattern. Other features: cut on facings. Separate R and L fronts allow for a clever and very neat front band treatment. Collar and stand.

Alterations – as drafted, this shirt actually tapers at the hem – the hip is smaller than the bust. Yes, I was glad I read the finished garment measurements before cutting!! No way can I handle that kind of shape. I altered so that the sides fall straight down, and made the 1/2 inch forward shoulder adjustment I now do on all of the CLD patterns. Did not alter the length and I like where it happened to fall. The result is very nice casual shirt. No surprise there, that’s exactly what I expect and always get from Cutting Line Designs.

Fabric: all cotton shirting in a fine black & white stripe – so it looks gray in the photo.

For those of you who can wear fitted capri pants, this version with the straight hem would be a cute pairing. Another thing I noticed, when trying this one on before the sleeves were added, is that it looks great sleeveless with that somewhat extended shoulder. There is definately one of those coming up in the future. And I will be trying the vertical darts, too.

BTW, this shirt is the first one that I used Pam Erny’s Shirt-Crisp interfacing on. Yes, it is juuuuust right for shirts! Thank you, Pam!

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10 Comments leave one →
  1. Anonymous permalink
    April 21, 2012 2:56 pm

    I really like what you’ve done with the shirt. Now I’m convinced I’ll need that pattern too.

  2. April 21, 2012 2:59 pm

    Sorry Robyn, that post was from Belinda. Hmmm, WordPress has changed comments?

  3. April 21, 2012 3:22 pm

    Both of these are very nice!!!!

  4. April 21, 2012 3:33 pm

    wonderful shirt gosh – No.5 you are speeding ahead of me – and the little top is very cute too.

  5. Brenda permalink
    April 21, 2012 3:39 pm

    Great top! I also saw the special knit on Christine Jonson’s site – I think. It’s long gone from there, too! And I was slow – no special knit in my stash!

    If you are having a bit of a “time out” with knits, when you are ready to resurface, I highly recommend paying the $5 for CJ’s samples. It’s reimbursed when you order from that collection, but you have to hustle, as they do sell out!…:that is, if the “time out” is related to quality knits vs other knit issues…

    Brenda

  6. marcia permalink
    April 21, 2012 3:57 pm

    Thank you for posting the PP cowl top – looks great. I also like the LC shirt – I’m still trying to find time to get to mine.
    Marcia

  7. April 22, 2012 12:38 am

    As usual, I love your tops. You never fail to inspire me. I have had my eye on that drape top ever since I followed a link for your PP jacket pattern. Great result. And, I love your version of TBP. I had wondered about sleeveless and so I am glad to know you liked it. That pattern just has SO many variations, doesn’t it. Can’t wait to start mine. Thanks for a wonderful post.

  8. April 25, 2012 7:34 pm

    Great to see the PP pattern made up in a knit. it looks really nice. I have the pattern, but I was only picturing it in a woven.

  9. April 26, 2012 7:55 pm

    Oh my, I’ve been struggling with a stand on a shirt. I might look into the LC pattern. I love the soft drapy top. You look fantastic in it.

    • April 26, 2012 8:17 pm

      Thanks, Kuby. , you might also check out Debbie and Belinda’s method for a collar and stand. It is really easy and gives good results. I linked to it in an earlier SAM post, and of course you can google it!

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