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SAM #6

May 24, 2012

Another outing for the Cutting Line’s The Blouse Perfected. This one has the standard sleeve treatment, with placket and cuffs, and the shirttail hem.

The fabric came from Fabric Mart when they had a nice sale on Egyptian cottons earlier this year. I got two pieces and they are both very, very nice. They still have some of them. Farmhouse Fabrics has some of the same fabrics, too.

I used Pam Erny’s relatively new Shirt-Crisp interfacing for the collar, stand, and cuffs. Crisp is the word! Recommended if you’re making dress shirts or something like this one that is meant to evoke the idea of a dress shirt. For rumpled and casual, you might choose a little more easy-going interfacing. On this shirt I liked it very much.

I used the the church-and-steeple sleeve placket included in the pattern. When the fabric is lightweight, I like to use the “magic placket” technique because it is easier. But this fabric is a little beefy, and the magic placket would have been too bulky where all the layers overlap in the point. So I took some deep breaths to slow down, cut and marked carefully, and followed the very complete instructions in the pattern. They came out very nice, and I won’t be afraid to use the traditional method again if the easy way doesn’t seem like the way to go.

The only design change on this one was cutting the outside yoke in two pieces, so that the front of the yoke is exactly on a stripe, and then the center back automatically makes a chevron. This is supposed to be a mark of quality among the bespoke shirts crowd. When you do this, you can cut the inner yoke in a single piece if there isn’t any show-through. Otherwise, you’ll want to have 4 yoke pieces with the stripes aligned.

To make a pattern piece for a two-piece yoke like this, just trace your pattern’s yoke piece (just one half) and add a seam allowance at center back. Example of the pattern placement (it is helpful to mark your seamlines so that you can place the seamline, not the cutting line, along a prominent stripe):

Cutting single layer gives the greatest accuracy – be sure to flip the pattern piece for the other side. When you sew the two pieces together, this is what you get:

Of course, yours will look better because you will be sure to do a nice press job before you take pictures or wear your spiffy shirt.

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13 Comments leave one →
  1. May 24, 2012 4:01 pm

    Robin, thank you for this post! The collar and stand look very crisp. I’ve never tried Pam’s shirt interfacing. The yoke looks chevroned and I love it. I feel like buying the pattern just for the directions. Your shirt looks so comfortable!

    • May 24, 2012 4:25 pm

      Thanks, Kuby! The shirt is not at all fitted, so it is very comfy. The pattern instructions are great, and except for the front band (which is not standard), they would guide you step by step through any shirt.

  2. May 24, 2012 7:08 pm

    This shirt looks spiffy even if you do think it would benefit from a press! Very nice – and I am still way behind you with the SAM project. (Must try harder)

    • Lydia permalink
      May 24, 2012 7:12 pm

      Now, that is one fine looking shirt. Is the underside of the collar cheveroned too? This is what I love about LC’s patterns. Beautiful, imagined wrinkles and all…………Lydia

    • May 25, 2012 1:13 pm

      Thank you! I think I’m done with classic shirts for now. Going to look for other directions.

  3. Anonymous permalink
    May 25, 2012 3:27 am

    A very sharp looking shirt. Great sewing!

  4. May 25, 2012 12:53 pm

    Robin, your shirt is beautiful. I especially love how you did the back of the yoke. I’m sure that took a lot of thought. Excellent work!

  5. May 25, 2012 3:07 pm

    This looks lovely – I have promised to make Mike some more shirts (we have a deal ha ha) and I want to do a chevron pattern on his 3rd shirt (no 2 currently in production is without the chevron).

    Look forward to seeing your next project.

    • May 26, 2012 12:08 pm

      You are so nice to make shirts for someone else! My spouse is very picky, but I think I’ve had enough practice to attempt one for him. Have to find the right fabric first…

      ________________________________

  6. June 8, 2012 7:28 pm

    Shirts scare me so I love seeing these – maybe someday

    • June 8, 2012 10:38 pm

      Give it a try, Ruth. I find shirt making very satisfying. The Blouse Perfected pattern gives meticulous instructions for each step, but there are free tutorials out there that will help, too, if you don’t want to purchase this pattern.

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  1. 6-pack completed « Unzipped

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