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Sam #8 and Vogue 8810

August 11, 2012

The shirt for August is one for the spouse – hence the hanger shot instead of one on the dressform. This is Kwik Sew 2935, a short-sleeved sport shirt with convertible collar and back pleats.  Also included is a pattern for an “On Golden Pond bucket hat. This is the second shirt I’ve made from this pattern. The first one was an experiment…I made something I was pretty sure he never would have picked out (I used fabric with -gasp- a stripe in it!), but he actually wore it. Maybe he is just sucking up? But since the first one has actually appeared in public more than once, I made a second, in a fabric that is much more like what he would choose from a rack in a store. It has a stripe, too, but it is just a self-colored woven textured stripe, and I made a few other changes at Spouse’s request. The original design has a little button loop sewn at the top of the center front, to use if buttoning the very top button. Spouse found that fussy. He also did not liked the buttons on the chest pockets.

So for this iteration, there is a single pocket with no button, and no little loop. I actually liked the little loop, so I will use it on some shirts for myself. This new one has also been worn a few times, which has emboldened me to make more. Annie-Oh on PatternReview mentioned that she had been happy with the cottons she has ordered from HawaiianFabric.com. Before you could say “aloha”, there were a few pieces on the way to my place. One piece earmarked for another one of these KS2935 shirts is a lovely barkcloth with an oriental print. It looks kind of purplish in the photo but is actually navy & eggshell. 

I also ordered another print for him, and one for myself, too…just to amortize the shipping costs. Yeah, that’s the ticket…

I have tried a few KS patterns for myself and they haven’t really worked for me, but this one is a winner.

Another recent project was from Vogue 8810.When this pattern came out, I thought it would adapt to make a nice top (no dresses for me) from a stashed lightweight cotton with a depression-era type print. The pattern bodice has a vintage vibe to me and just seemed right.

There were lots of changes made to make it work for that soft voile. Both bodice and back were enlarged below the bust so that it would not cling on the hip. The pattern has the skirt cut separately, so the bodice ends at the waist and had to be lengthened to be a top. I was not going to use the casing/drawstring, but decided to tame the fullness I had added with some pintucks at the waist. There are a total of 16 1/8 inch tucks, 4 on each side of both the front and back.

You get a nice bathroom mirror shot to show that it has a little shape – not too much. I’ve learned that I really need a forward shoulder & neck adjustment on just about every pattern, no matter who it comes from. The result is that now nothing ever sits right on the dressform, because old Red Sonja has better posture than I. What a difference that adjustment makes in the wearing of the clothes!

Now for a gripe on the Vogue pattern. YOU CANNOT MAKE A SLEEVELESS GARMENT JUST BY LEAVING OFF THE SLEEVES! I raised the bottom of the armhole 5/8 of an inch and it was not enough.  All the big 4 issue patterns where they show a sleeveless view, but there’s only one bodice. It just doesn’t work like that. I can still wear my cool little blouse, because I always wear a jacket when I’m in public, but this time I think the lesson is learned. In future I will always copy from a TNT sleeveless when they haven’t provided a bodice specifically for the sleeveless view.

Lastly, an update on the Vogue 8804 epic project. I have bought charmeuse lining in a tealy-steely blue and some yarns to crochet the trim. However. Turns out there is an error on one of the pieces of the three-piece sleeve. Vogue only included one size. I seem to recall that the last time Vogue issued a CS pattern with a 3-piece sleeve, they got that one wrong the first time, too. Word is that the pattern has been re-issued. I’ve e-mailed Vogue for a replacement, and got a response that something was wrong with their mailbox. I’m hoping that they can send me a replacement soon…if not, I’m deciding between forging ahead and trusting in my muslin, or switching to another similar pattern that I’ve made before and drawing on CS’s directions and the wonderful picture tutorial Ann Rowley has done on this jacket for construction details.

Anyone interested in this jacket, there’s a thread over on Stitcher’s Guild devoted to it. Links to Ann’s tutorial are sprinkled throughout the thread.

Happy sewing to you!



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18 Comments leave one →
  1. August 11, 2012 8:45 pm

    Great looking shirt for your other half, you will be catching up with me – I have made my 10 shirts now (and got my prize). Love the little spotty number – having made a top with lots of narrow tucks my sympathies for the pain you endured.

    Good luck with Vogue 8804 – I have the pattern, but have a number of other projects before I can even think about looking at this.

    • August 12, 2012 2:13 pm

      Pauline, congratulations on earning your bag. It will look just perfect with the beautiful things you make.

  2. August 11, 2012 9:51 pm

    What a pretty pin tuck detail. And you make such beautiful collars and bands. I’ll be interested in hearing about your 8804 progress

    • August 12, 2012 2:11 pm

      Thank you, Lynn. That retro fabric reminded me so much of my mother. I could visualize her wearing it.

  3. August 11, 2012 10:42 pm

    I love that you saw the pattern envelope and thought top instead of dress. I also like how you’ve adapted the top by adding darts to lose the casing. I hope you get your new pattern soon because I’m looking forward to your journey with this pattern.

    • August 12, 2012 2:08 pm

      Thanks, Carolyn. I’m getting over my pattern error outrage. The Muslin is all cut out, so I’ll baste it together and evaluate.

  4. August 12, 2012 12:12 am

    Oh I like the top for you- thats very summery- a little retro too.

  5. Martha permalink
    August 12, 2012 1:58 am

    Your shirt is very sharp-looking. I love the tucks. So much better than the original pattern. And DH’s shirt is wonderful too. You are doing great on your SAMs. I’ve fallen behind and I seem to have lost the thread over on Artisan’s Square. Off to look for it!

    • August 12, 2012 2:05 pm

      Yes, check the thread to see Pauline’s prize!

  6. August 12, 2012 2:03 am

    ‘Sleeveless means just leaving off the sleeves’ has begun to annoy the stew outta me, too…I’m at the point where I really don’t want to wear sleeves under jackets most of the time, but I would also like the option of removing the jacket if I happened to, um, suddenly feel warm….

  7. August 12, 2012 11:40 am

    Thanks for the details on that Vogue pattern. I have it too, and am thinking a dress. You are so right about not making a sleeveless dress by just leaving off the sleeves. That has baffled me about patterns in the past, and you are right – take the armhole from another pattern.

    • August 12, 2012 11:55 pm

      Julie, I think it’s really attractive as a dress, too. One of the more wearable styles Vogue has come out with. I just don’t do skirts anymore!

      ________________________________

  8. August 12, 2012 4:17 pm

    The first thing I thought was “I need a blouse like this!”. Robyn I found the same thing on those patterns and I agree. You can’t make a sleeveless garment by leaving off the sleeves. I try my tissue on my dressform which has my shoulder points, my armscye etc all marked on the cover. Her stuffing may have shifted, but these critical points are still in the right place.

    • August 12, 2012 4:53 pm

      That’s a good idea, Bev. I should mark up the dress form.

  9. August 23, 2012 12:11 am

    Your blouse is so cute! It does look light and airy and perfect for warm weather. Your husband’s shirt looks so well made. Thanks for sharing these great garments.

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