BurdaStyle, making a comeback

The last time my Burda subscription was up for renewal, I let it go.  The recent styles they had shown just weren’t appealing, and I had to admit to myself that I was no longer a Burda girl. That was sad, because I’d been a subscriber for a long time and used to look forward to each issue so much. But to be honest, even back in the days when my love was young, I was always looking at the line drawings with the intent of removing this or that trendy detail to make the design more classic. So maybe I never really was a Burda girl.

However, there are 7 or 8 years of the magazines in the stash closet, and I’m glad I haven’t thrown them out. Recently I’ve traced and made two new items from old issues, and am feeling the Burda love again.

The first was a pair of pants from the Fall 2008 Burda Plus issue, style #404. I don’t remember how I was led to trace and try these pants, but I’m so glad I did. This is the first pair of narrow-ish pants that have worked for me. Sorry, no photos because I just don’t seem to be able to get good pants pics. These 404 pants have a couple of features that help us curvy types get a good fit: The waistband is cut in quarters, so there are seams at the sides and center back.  It’s that CB seam, along with two darts in the back, that help give a nice fit back there that snugs up to the waist.  Having narrow pants with a good fit really opens up a lot of different possibilities for me, so yay Burda!

The second is the #108 blouse/jacket from the 2-2011 issue that was mentioned in my last post. Here it is all hemmed and finished. This was nice to make – the fabric was a real pleasure to work with; and the Burda pattern was well drafted and gave no headaches. Really, what every pattern should be.

Not all of the details of this pattern show up well in the line drawing. The top front and back are one piece and shaped with darts. The lower portions are pieced – lower fronts each have two pieces, lower back has 3 pieces. There are cute little vents at the bottom of the seams in the back. The hem is shaped, and is shorter in the back. In fact, it is so much shorter in the back that it would have ended right at my waist (not a good look). Even though extra length was added when tracing, I still had to borrow from the hem allowance to make it a bit longer, and didn’t have enough hem depth to make the little vents. Boo hoo. KayY, The Sewing Lawyer, made a different view of this jacket and noted that the upper back was very full. It is. Since the view I made was modelled as a blouse in the magazine, and my fabric was lighter weight, I left that blousy effect.

Construction notes: I used more couture-like techniques than usual. Instead of adding seam allowances to the tracing, the seamlines were chalked so they could be matched up exactly. There was a lot of hand basting. All the pieces were underlined with silk organza, which gave the right amount of support and body, I think, and also allowed for absolutely invisible hemming since the hems are stitched only to the underlining. The silk organza was also used to bind the seam allowances, and those were then tacked down by hand to the underlining.

Although I’ve set in plenty of sleeves, this time I decided to use Ann Rowley’s tutorial. Following it step by step taught me a thing or two, and I especially like the stability given to the armscye by stitching it twice. That’s something I’d never done before.

The front closes with hooks & eyes, per Burda’s instructions. I bought hook & eye tape from Mood for this, but ended up removing the eyes from the tape and sewing them in individually. I could not figure out how to get the eye side of the tape to stay unexposed. The hooks and eyes prevent any gapping, but I’m still not super-sold them. However, I’ll try wearing it that way at least once. If changes need to be made, some closely-spaced buttons/buttonholes can be added.

Here’s the bathroom photo so you can get an idea of how it looks worn. No, I won’t be wearing it with army green knock around pants. When I was taking these photos, I also tried slipping in a thin shoulder pad (no pads in this photo). Note to self: if I’m going to start loving the Burda again, I really need to standardize my shoulder adjustments. Those Burda glamazons have broad shoulders! The pads made a bit of a difference for the better, so technically this jacket still isn’t done….but the blogging is :-).

Special occasion top #2 from my previous post, the new Cutting Line pattern, is under construction. Since I want to wear it Thursday, it will be finished soon. See you then!


32 thoughts on “BurdaStyle, making a comeback

  1. I *LOVE* this jacket!! You did a great job on it. I have a few Plus Burda Style pattern mags and I’ve pulled them out. I’ve never traced off a Burda pattern, so I’m looking forward to trying. Thanks also for sharing Ann’s sleeve insertion video.

  2. What a totally beautiful Jacket! Thank you for posting such detailed sewing notes. Beautiful couture sewing!! Your skill is an inspiration and example to me. 🙂 , especially as I have a pattern similar to this (I think mine is Kwik Sew, tho), which is next in my queue line-up.

  3. Very nice! What is the fabric; it looks like a medium wt silk or linen. The color is beautiful. I love the idea of the silk underlining. I’m going too have to remember that one. I over-do the finishing details in my projects because I don’t have a serger, just a straight stitch/zig zag machine. As for the hooks and eyes. I’m not sold on them either. You could also try the buttons sewn on the outside and covered snaps on the inside. Maybe three medium sized very artistic buttons. I’ve been looking at the BurdaStyle magazines in the past and the Plus sizes are very fitted-very french/chic following the curves of the body instead of trying to hide them. I need to get a subscription and give them a try. Thank you for the inspiration.

    • Thank you, Lorna. The fabric is raw silk, about the weight of a md wt linen. There have been complaints lately about Burda showing unfitted sacks, but we can hope they change their content.

  4. Such a pretty jacket. That color looks great on you. I often look through my old issues of Burda and find patterns I like better than the ones in the current issues.

  5. Very pretty! I’ve also been looking at some of my old BWOF’s. I have subscribed in several years now. I’ve marked a couple that may make their way to the sewing machine.

  6. I stopped my subscription after things started to repeat (You know when you are reading and think you have already ‘seen all this before’?). I still have a box of old Burdas and inspired by your lovely jacket – and still struggling with what I want to make next – I will dig them out for inspiration.
    And hope I make something as nice as this!

  7. Although I have a small stash of Burda magazines, I am just too lazy to trace the patterns. I love many of their styles, though, especially the clean-lined versions. This looks just wonderful, Robyn! The color is terrific.

    • Thanks, Lynn! The tracing takes some getting used to, but when you can alter and trace at the same time it doesn’t take much longer than starting with an envelope pattern.

  8. “Burda glamazons,” I love it. Did you coin that phrase? It’s super. And so is your jacket. I am a Burda addict, I guess. I have over ten years’ worth. I think that entitles me to that label. I think I will try this one and follow along with Ann Rowley the way you did. I have never chalked the seam lines on the fabric. Maybe I will like that better. I usually just use the little guide arm I attach to my rotary cutter. Anyway, your jacket is a huge success!

    • Ha! I’m pretty sure I must have swiped the “glamazons” term from some clever person, but can’t remember who. You have magazines going back farther than I do - and it sounds like you make good use of them!

  9. I really love this! The colour is so happy and may I say, you look wonderful in it. When it comes to Burda… I buy them when I can see there’s a design or two I’d like… but only then. More often than not, they don’t appeal. But this jacket is sublime.

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