SAM 11 & 12

Ah, the shirt a month discipline is over! Not that I’m happy to see it go, it’s just nice to complete a long-term project. Reflections and re-cap will be the subject for another post. This one is just to record the final two shirts.

#11 – Kwik Sew 2935   This is the third shirt I’ve sewn for the Spouse from this Kwik Sew camp/aloha shirt pattern. This time I finally remembered to increase the seam allowances so I could make flat felled seams. Lots of people like the skinny KS seam allowances, but I really prefer either no SA, for easy alteration, or a full 5/8 inch that I can spot reduce if I want to.

Because the side seams were felled, I used little appliqued triangles on the inside to cover and reinforce the transition between the felled side seams (all pressed to one side) and the side vents. The seam allowances needed to be pressed away from each other, as if pressed open, to form the vents.

Full disclosure: I tried to match the pattern across the front but goofed in my thinking, because the match, she ain’t happening.

I loved the fabric used for this shirt – a hefty cotton dobby that came from Hawaiian Fabric. It was so easy to sew, and came out of the dryer looking great. With the busy print you can’t really see much detail, but all I did to prepare it for the photo was to press the collar points. The rest of the shirt didn’t even need a touch-up.

Since the fabric was heavier than usual for a shirting, it was a good test of Pam Erny’s latest tip on her Off The Cuff blog. You’ll have to scroll down to see the tip, I don’t know how to link to a single entry on Pam’s blog. Anyway, that technique worked superbly. Even with the thick fabric, I didn’t have to trim the corners down excessively. Thank you, Pam! P.S. I used her sew-in standard weight interfacing for both shirts in this post. Sew-in interfacing rules.

Coconut buttons from a forgotten source. Wish I could remember, because I had a big bag and am running out. I like aloha shirts and coconut buttons are of course perfect for the laid-back island vibe.

The final shirt: Ottobre 5-2012, #7 AKA Gardener. This is a longer shirt with a little shape and a raised waistline seam on the front. In the sample garment in the magazine, they did some color/texture blocking with co-ordinating fabrics. The upper fronts, collar, and sleeves were made from a plaid. The original had the front bands and breast pockets cut on the bias. I eliminated the collar and the pockets, and used the separate upper fronts to showcase some pintucking. The original had continuous binding where the sleeve meets the edge of the cuff. I replaced that with a real placket. Thanks to SAM I am confident now with making plackets and that’s nice because I like the look of them better.

Fabric for this one was cotton “Sunwashed Chambray” from Farmhouse Fabrics in a pearl gray.  Farmhouse describes it as “soft as butter”. I disagree with that description, unless your butter has body and is a little crisp.  I liked it very much, and am thinking of ordering a length in another color — just wouldn’t call it soft.

Shell Buttons from Pam Erny’s Fashion Sewing Supply.

I’ve read reviews of this shirt on PR that describe it as oversized. I don’t think it’s particularly roomy, just a little loose. I might make it even looser the next time, because it just seems like a long shirt shouldn’t hug you too closely. The fit was pretty good with my usual Ottobre alterations. My only quibble is that there is less “driving room” than I usually have with the Ottobre draft. Before I make it again I’ll compare to my other Ottobre shirt patterns and see what the difference is.

There you have it. A shirt a month in 2012, complete!


20 thoughts on “SAM 11 & 12

  1. You are good. I still have 4 to go. I too have learned so much from your SAM. love love love the gardener. Need to try some pin tucks!

  2. Well done Robyn! All done. I am in awe of your shirts as they have all been wonderful.
    I am still lurking at a massive four – and can’t see that I am likely to get past that at the moment.
    I like the suggestion of a ‘pegnoir a month’! (Though I wouldn’t be likely to need 12 of them either!)

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