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a knit top and some pants fitting

February 28, 2013

V8536This post is mainly to get some photos on the web so I can post them in some forums, so it may be a little short on text.

First up, a top from V8536, which is one of their basic design patterns – a knit top with several different necklines and sleeve lengths. I am following a Top A Month thread on Stitcher’s Guild and want to make most of them knits because I’m badly in need of experience working with knits. I’m really happy with this pattern and the way my top turned out. The V is a little deep but still wearable. I’ll probably tweak that next time, but everything else worked out just fine. A very nice feature of this pattern is that it has some bust fullness to it that you ease in on the sides. It this particular knit (a nice one from Christine Jonson) the easing is invisible. I’ll make this pattern again.

One of the areas that I really need to work on with knits is hemming. On this one, I used four lines of topstitching as suggested by Claire Shaeffer  in her High-Fashion Sewing Secrets book. Claire says this hem was used often by Jean Muir and others. There are two rows of stitching about a quarter of an inch apart at the hem edge, and two more rows of stitching V8536 detailtwo inches above that. There’s a pic of the hem even though the close match of the threads makes it hard to see.

Claire’s book is not a new one. It’s full of nice techniques to give a nice elevating touch to garments. I need to look at it more for ideas.

Now for the less successful. Cutting Line Designs has a new pattern called My Swing Set that has a skinnier-fit pant with side seams. My first attempt was a failure, but that was due to my own errors. When I finished this pair, I thought that they looked pretty good – until I took the photos! Now it’s plain that more work is needed. But I’ll give them another try.

CLD MSS

 

 

 

 

Pinning a quarter inch scoop helps the left side a bit, but the right is still wrong. I suspect my right backside is a different size from the left, and that if I really want to do pants right, I’ll have to start cutting two different backs.CLD MSS 2

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13 Comments leave one →
  1. Gina permalink
    February 28, 2013 9:39 pm

    The woes of pants fitting. These look like mine. Wish I had some advice, but nothing has worked for me.

    • March 2, 2013 12:21 pm

      I’m not giving up yet, and if I can fix them I’ll post my alterations. Fingers crossed.

    • March 2, 2013 10:40 pm

      Gina, I tried another muslin today. Didn’t get any better. I may try one more and then I’m done with this pattern.

  2. Nancy Karpen permalink
    February 28, 2013 10:14 pm

    We are so hard on ourselves. You’d probably overlook the wrinkles in a rtw pair of pants.
    A pair of pants leaves my studio and if I don’t take the pictures that moment, the rear end stretches and bingo perfect pants become not so perfect. These are certainly better than rtw and very wearable. The front is an issue that I have had over the years. I have found that a straighter cf seam helps this, but it will show up in fabric that doesn’t have a lot of drape and not be there in drapey fabric. I have come to accept the limits of my body in my quest for the perfect fit in pants.
    Nice top; simple is good.

    • March 2, 2013 12:19 pm

      Nancy, you’re right. The pants actually looked OK in the mirror, and I will wear them. We just think since we’re doing it ourselves and have complete control, the darn things should be perfect!

  3. February 28, 2013 10:25 pm

    One of my sewing groups is now studying pant fitting and so far, out of 12 people, only 1 is satisfied with the fit of their pant. It was not me! It takes work and a lot of trial and error. Your hem is an interesting technique. Although I have that book, I don’t remember that hem, but will look it up, for sure.

    • March 2, 2013 12:16 pm

      I have had only three patterns that have been satisfactory with minimal alterations. One Marcy Tilton, one Claire Shaeffer, and one Burda. All others needed major reworking. Oh, and the CLD one seams. I think a little more work will get these fitted right.

  4. March 1, 2013 6:10 am

    Robyn, There are a few non-vocal members who are having issues with this pant pattern. We all see much the same wrinkles and haven’t been able to determine the problem. Wish you luck and please post what you do. We may want to copy you.

    • March 2, 2013 12:10 pm

      Seems like every pants pattern takes real commitment to make it work. I wish I could understand their mysteries!

  5. March 1, 2013 2:43 pm

    What an elegant finish for the top. I would worry that there would be four wavy lines–but yours look perfect! I think the pants look pretty good..if it were me I would wear them while I work for a better fit on another pair

  6. Martha permalink
    March 2, 2013 2:29 am

    Love the Jean Muir finish to a knit top. Takes it up a notch. I’m wondering about the varying results people are reporting on the MSS pants. Are some using wovens with a bit of lycra and others just plain wovens. Just a meandering thought.

  7. March 25, 2013 3:38 am

    I think the pants look good! Try ironing a crease in them. Maybe the right leg crotch needs to be lowered. Check to see if both the legs on garment are the same size. One last idea before you sew in inner leg fold the front and back leg over in half and try to match the knees and the then the bottom of the pants where the hem would will be uneven so then even up on the bottom.. Don’t try to match the notches because it doesn’t work on the legs. Hope some of the ideas can help..

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