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Ottobre Triangle and CLD Pure & Simple

March 19, 2013

The spring issue of Ottobre Woman arrived about a month ago and what a good issue it is! The editor says they have added a new Finnish designer, Cecilia Sorensen, to the staff. Maybe she is responsible for all the nice stuff? But then, I thought the previous issue was especially good, too.

I liked so much that it was hard to decide what to make first, but the cute summery Triangle blouse won. The pattern instructions specified a sheer viscose/silk fabric (sounds like Radience would work really well for a luxe version). I had no such fabric in stash, so I ordered some Imperial Batiste to make this up, thinking the weight would be about right….and no ironing.

Otto 2_13_9 testBrag time. I ordered exactly what I needed and DID NOT order extra fabrics just to amortize the shipping costs. Changing habits is hard, but if I did it once, I can do it again.

While waiting for the “good” fabric to arrive, I made a muslin from stash. I didn’t want it to be exactly the same, because the triangle design is way too distinctive. But the beauty of patterns without seam allowances is that the front piece was presented as a whole front, with a line designating where the seamline would be to create the triangle. So I just made regular unpieced fronts from a heavy but drapey mystery fabric, and contrast front bands from a ticking-like fabric scrap.

I had recently done some snoop-shopping of Eileen Fisher and noted that she is using a lot of neckline bands. Now, hers are real ones (band plus facing). To mimic that look with less work, I drafted and cut a neckline facing and turned it to the outside. The facing was positioned on the fabric to match the bands which were cut on the bias.

Voila, iteration number one.

Otto 2_13_9Here is the version with the special-bought fabric, made up just like the model in the magazine, with collar and stand.

Construction notes: for both versions, I used my usual gambit for tracing the Euro patterns: find my size based on my bust measurement. Cut the shoulder one size smaller. Cut the hip one size larger. That’s all the fitting I need for a loose blouse like this one.

Ottobre does believe in darts, and this pattern has both shoulder darts and bust darts to finesse the fit. With it’s little cap sleeves, it is an easy sew. The hem does dip a little bit in front, which is more graceful that a straight-across hemline.

Don’t be put off from the pulls that show up around the bust in the photo. They are because of the grabby fabric of my dressform.

I will have to wear this a lot this summer, because the color blocking thing will probably be over pretty quick. It’s a happy little blouse, so that should be no problem. No, I did not have it finished for St. Patrick’s day.

P&S jacketAnother pattern that got it’s first trial by me is the jacket from Cutting Line Design’s Pure and Simple. The top from this pattern is a favorite of many people, but I haven’t seen the jacket made up very much. I can say that I will be using it again for sure! The pattern is for a coat or long jacket with three horizontal sections (another opportunity for color blocking). The first horizontal seam hides the pocket openings. It is easy to extend the top section to the length you want if you don’t want to include the horizontal seams, and that’s what I did. To replace the lost pockets, I made patch breast pockets.

The fit is loose and boxy, the facing is cut-on, so this is another easy-going project. The sleeves are just lovely in this jacket – they are not supposed to be dropped sleeves, and on me they were almost perfect – no weird folds in the sleeve at all. Next time I’ll narrow the shoulders just a bit. As is, the armcye sleeve is in the vicinity of my shoulder, but would look a little neater if it was just a little bit closer.

When you consider the nice shell that is the companion piece of this jacket, it makes this pattern one of the true jewels in the CLD line. I’m glad I gave the jacket a try. It’s a great unstructured jacket that you can add all sorts of details to. In fact, I wore it when I was doing my Eileen Fisher snoop shopping and got invited to a trunk show. Usually salesladies ignore me, so I guess it made me look worthy of attention!

Happy spring, one and all!

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13 Comments leave one →
  1. marcia Elwood permalink
    March 19, 2013 9:33 pm

    Beautiful top and Jacket. Maybe when I get settled I’ll try an Ottobre. Yours both look great. I really like the looks of the LC jacket. And, of course, I have that also.
    Marcia

  2. MarcyF permalink
    March 19, 2013 9:44 pm

    What a cute little top(s)–just perfect for summer! But I especially love your jacket, the fabric is wonderful. I like how the pockets don’t really stand out as pockets but do create a subtle texture change across the front of the jacket. Pure and Simple is one of the few more recent CLD patterns that I don’t have in my collection–you may have changed my mind on whether I need it!

  3. Martha permalink
    March 19, 2013 9:46 pm

    Love all three pieces. Each is distinctive and chic. Thanks for the heads-up on the P&S jacket. So it is a set-in sleeve that sits at the shoulder? So much to love about it!
    Hope you’ll post your P&S jacket to the flickr thread that Terri started for CLD pieces.

  4. March 19, 2013 10:48 pm

    Hey Robin, Your tops are wonderful! I am about to make the Ottobre top myself. I’m in love with the February issue. Your versions are fabulous and congrats on the fabric restraint. :))

  5. March 20, 2013 8:21 am

    I love Eileen Fisher. I have a sweater and knit top and pants that I’ve worn for years and they still look stylish. Wish there was an Eileen Fisher pattern book!

  6. March 20, 2013 11:47 am

    You have been busy Robin! I have yet to get hold of a copy of Ottobre magazine but your top makes me realise I need to. Very nice!

  7. March 20, 2013 1:28 pm

    I really like all that you have made! You are ready for spring summer (which seems to be here). Color blocking – yours is so sharp!

  8. March 20, 2013 1:29 pm

    Lovely work, as always. I think that you can wear color blocking for as long as you like!

  9. Ada permalink
    March 21, 2013 3:54 pm

    That blouse is on my to-do list. I really like the design with the different color bands around the neck and down the front.. A perfect summer blouse.

  10. March 25, 2013 5:12 am

    Great tops – I particularly like the jacket – smart and cute at the same time!

  11. August 21, 2013 12:42 am

    プラチナ万年筆

  12. Becky Stannard permalink
    February 28, 2014 3:30 pm

    I love your detailed sewing analyses. Reminds me a little of America’s Test Kitchen but for sewing instead of food. Finding fabrics in Devon UK isn’t easy. I envy your ability to order online.

    • February 28, 2014 10:31 pm

      Becky, I have some UK sewing buddies and can check with them where they buy. There’s a particular block in London that they haunt, but there are other sources as well, and some online vendors, too.

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