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Vogue 8536 again

March 24, 2013

There’s a Top A Month sewalong on Stitcher’s Guild that I am trying to keep up with and hope that it will do as much for my knit sewing as the shirt sewalong did last year for my shirtmaking abilities.

V8536 bHere’s the March entry, another view of Vogue 8536, the same pattern I used for the February top, which came out well and is a favorite. The pattern has a single back piece, with different fronts for the different necklines and a sleeve with three lengths. Put them together in lots of different combinations and never feel like you’ve made the exact same top twice.

This time I made the view with the wrap and 3/4 length sleeves.  That high wrap is appealing because with it you won’t end up looking like you have a breast in a sling. That’s what I think of when I see myself in a wrap top that crosses over lower. Higher wrap also keeps the focus up high, which is a good thing.

A little while ago I picked up Nancy Zieman’s Fitting Finesse book because it had been so long since I had looked at it. She has a page on doing a swayback alteration in cases where there is no center back seam. I had a little excess fabric puddling below the waist on the first iteration of this pattern, so I thought I’d try the alteration this time and compare. A bit over a half inch was removed, and the fit in the back was improved. It was an easy alteration and there are several other TNT patterns that come to mind where it would be worth a try.

Other construction notes: The fabric was a fairly stable cotton/lycra knit – not much stretch. About like a Sophia knit. Note to self, always have at least this much stretch when making this pattern.  Measuring the sleeves, they seemed narrow at the bicep. I sized up there, and ended up only taking a 1/4 inch seam allowance, and they are still just a little snug. If the fabric had been stretchier, it would have been no problem.

Binding the neckline is easier on a wrap like this because you can sew it all flat rather than in the round.

The hem was a worry. The pattern instructions have you treat both front pieces as one after you do the overlap, including the hem. A nagging voice in my head said that needed precision in order not to end up like a mess. I wanted to hem the fronts separately, so they could move independently of each other, but that was not possible with the already-constructed hem vents. Hand stitching the hems was another possibility, but again because of those vents, the hem is deep and in my mind needed the stability of a machine stitched hem.

FWIW, here’s what I did. Pressed up the hem, then trimmed the inner layer just above the fold line to eliminate one layer of bulk. Basted by hand on each side of where the final hem would be stitched. Finally, held my breath and stitched the hem. The photo shows some little pulling at the hem, but I don’t see it in real life, and am very happy with this top.

Next up, a pair of pants that will work with this top and the two previous blouses, to make a little capsule.

very useful pattern

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5 Comments leave one →
  1. WILLIAM BARNARD permalink
    March 24, 2013 3:29 pm

    I think I am on the way to be snowed in. More to come later in the day (Sunday). I digress: Love that pattern. I am having a horrid time trying to sew w/knits. Maybe I can get to JA before the big one hits. I need something for a muslin (knit). Kep your posts coming – your tops are so inspiring. I agree about the top layer looking like the “girls” are in a sling. Keep warm or cool………….Lydia

  2. March 24, 2013 6:04 pm

    nice looking top.

  3. March 24, 2013 9:03 pm

    “Breast in a sling” – I often think, above or below when wearing a wrap top. Funny.
    Great workhorse of of a top – more than a T

  4. March 25, 2013 12:54 am

    Great color and a beautiful top – this may be your TNT.

  5. March 25, 2013 1:00 am

    I like this top a lot. Very nice pattern, with the high wrap. I’m sure the pretty color looks great on you, too!

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