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Ottobre Woman 2/13 #3

June 29, 2013

IMG_4224IMG_4224a…And here’s the finished shirt. I’ve already seen Amanda make this up, and plans on another blog to make it, so this may end up being a popular pattern, for Ottobre. It’s a nice buttonup shirt with a pretty yoke detail. The front shoulder seam is quite forward and slanted, and the back of the yoke is curved. It has darts for a nice bust fit.

This shirt is part of a travel wardrobe for a relatively rugged vacation I have coming up. We won’t be sleeping in tents, but there will be plenty of hiking and hauling of gear, and the climate is different from what we have here so I do need some items good for what I would call cool, but not cold, weather.

Fabric is denim chambray. It’s a little heavier than a regular shirting, so I took the opportunity to use some scraps of a Liberty cotton to make the lining pieces.

Liberty surprise under the pocket flaps

Liberty surprise under the pocket flaps

Liberty inside cuffs and collar stand

Liberty inside cuffs and collar stand

little Liberty hem gussets

little Liberty hem gussets

The yoke is lined with the same print, too. Feels extra nice to wear.

Design changes: added second breast pocket and squared off the pocket bottoms; pocket flaps; added sleeves; changed hem to more like a swallowtail hem. Added a bit to the first fold at center front so the band is self-interfaced.

Alterations: I used my usual Ottobre sizing gambit (44-46-48, with the 44 @ the shoulder), forward shoulder and swayback adjustments.

General comments: I like that the front band is cut-on but am puzzled why they didn’t have the first fold wide enough to be a self-interfacing piece. Maybe I missed something in the instructions. In general, Ottobre makes their CF bands for their shirts a little narrow and dainty for me. Next time I’ll make it a little wider. Another possible drafting (or tracing) problem: The back side seam was about an inch longer than the front. I went back and checked my tracing against the original, and it seems like I traced correctly. But errors could have crept in with my alterations, so I’m not sure where the problem lies. In any case, it’s an easy fix.

I used the sleeve from the Gardener shirt in the 5/2012 issue and it fit into the armscye with just a little easing. HOWEVER, I should have widened the shoulder of the body so that it would fall a little off of my actual shoulder, the way most shirts do. The armhole for “Buttondown” is cut in a little bit, which is more graceful for a sleeveless design. I thought I could leave the shoulder width as is, since my shoulders are narrow, but the hang of the sleeve is influenced just a little bit. It’s really fine as it is, but could have been better, and will be next time.

There are a few more travel-related items at the top of my sewing queue. A couple of oversized shirts that can go over layers, and some utilitarian odds and ends. Marcy Tilton’s pattern V8407 includes a passport pouch, a little cross-body bag, and all kinds of cute envelopes for travel items. I want to make a few of those things, too.

I hope everyone is enjoying a fun and relaxing summer, whether it includes travel or not.


9 Comments leave one →
  1. June 29, 2013 4:12 pm

    Robyn, beautiful treatment of collars, cuffs, etc., with the Liberty Fabric! You sewing skills are impeccable. : )

  2. June 29, 2013 4:34 pm

    Such gorgeous details! All of your shirt sewing has given you excellent skills.

  3. June 29, 2013 5:50 pm

    I love how clever you are, adding sleevs to a sleeveless design. I just wouldn’t think to do that. I’m loving the liberty detail, too.

  4. June 29, 2013 5:54 pm

    love the liberty touch – great looking shirt/blouse

  5. June 29, 2013 6:57 pm

    I especially like those slanted shoulder seams, and of course, the liberty addition.

  6. Martha permalink
    June 29, 2013 11:47 pm

    It’s just a great shirt, especially with the designer touches.

  7. June 29, 2013 11:50 pm

    There are so many things about this shirt which take it to a higher level. The liberty touches, the pockets, the topstitching, the angled shoulder seams, the addn of sleeves. Just marvelous!

  8. Michele Rickitt permalink
    July 1, 2013 7:34 am

    I love how you’ve done the little Liberty “surprises”.

  9. September 26, 2013 2:40 am

    Love the liberty lining. Makes a classic shirt even more special.

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