an Ottobre palate cleanser

Thanks so much to those who left comments on the previous post, and also to those who sent encouraging vibes out into the ether. The sleeves are in on the jacket – hems, chain, and general finish/press are all that are left. Since my goal is to wear the jacket to Christmas concerts this year, I think I’m in good shape.

A long time ago, Leslie in Austin prescribed a knit top as the answer for mojo fatigue. The latest Ottobre Woman has just arrived, and they do such a good job with knits, so it was a quick trace and sew to make #4 from this issue. It’s a raglan-sleeved T with a wide neckline. I used a gray heather-effect ITY from Marcy Tilton specifically to be a light-weight layer under this vest. The vest is one I like, but it hasn’t been worn much because a navy or white layer underneath just seems too matchy.

made specifically to wear with the vest on the right
made specifically to wear with the vest on the right

Here are the findings: I was concerned that the neckline might be too wide since my shoulders are slightly narrow. Good news, bra straps are covered and the top does not slip around from side to side. The sleeves are a bit narrow for me on this style. I widened them a little, but they are still quite snug. I swung the hem out quite a bit  – maybe too much – so that it wouldn’t get hung up in back. That’s really fine since this piece will probably always be worn as an underlayer.

There are some weird little folds just like darts running from the side seam to above the breast on both sides. Those will have to be addressed if I make this again to wear without overlayers. I’m not at all familiar with altering raglan styles, but it seems like shortening everything about 3/8 of an inch somewhere above the bustline will help.

I used the neckline facing for view B (a dress) to get the length for the neck binding. It was way too short. Cut a much longer strip using the same width – since the binding is sewn on in the flat before stitching up the last shoulder seam, it’s easy just to cut a long strip and cut off the excess.

The side seams really have quite a bit of shaping to them that doesn’t show up in the photos. If you make your tops more fitted than I do, the shaping should show. The neckline is a pretty shape.

One last note – Ottobre tops, whether shirts or knits, always seem to be a little on the long side to me. Not this one! The stated finished length is correct, and it is shorter than their usual. I lengthened an inch.

Tracing to finish was maybe 3 hours? Not long. How refreshing!


6 thoughts on “an Ottobre palate cleanser

  1. Maybe I should try a knit top to rev up the mojo. Pretty color! I don’t always have good luck with raglan sleeves and various wrinkles. Perhaps the nature of the beast? dunno…Looks really nice with the vest! So thankful for the rain we got this a.m. and the bit of break in the temps! Hope you got some rain too.

  2. I’ve never sewn an Ottobre pattern. I don’t quite understand your planned alterations for the next version of the pattern but I think you’d be needing to slash and spread the sleeve at the shoulder point area without changing anything about the neckline. That’s my best guess, I’m not a raglan sleeve aficionado. If I run across any more info on that topic I’ll pass it along (in other words, somewhere in this sieve of a brain I’ve got I think I’ve recently run across the technically correct method to fix this. Maybe)

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