A Cute Angle

It seems like Cutting Line Designs patterns are being issued more frequently these days. That’s good news, because I usually like them very much. But now it is easy to get behind with trying them out. And since they are expensive patterns, we can’t have them just piling up on the corner of the cutting table!

A Cute Angle

A Cute Angle is one of the ones I hadn’t made yet. There are two patterns in the envelope: One is a long sleeve blouse with hidden button closure, and the other is an asymmetrical jacket. I was curious about how the blouse differed from some similar recent offerings. The Artist In Motion top looks similar, and I wondered if the front closure was the only difference. A quick muslin later, I had my answer. The ACA top is cut slimmer – there is much less volume than the AIM top. It also seemed like the shoulder is squarer. I didn’t care for the way I looked in it, so I started thinking about the jacket.

The asymmetrical design is kind of “out there” for me. A wrap or an off-center line of buttons is about as far as I have gone. But this one seems like it could hang with a lagenlook collection, so it needed to be tried.

I’d also been wanting to order from the linen specialty shop, fabrics-store.com. So I picked out a pretty blue and ordered yardage plus some swatches of other colors and weights to get an idea of their inventory. The mid-weight (IL019) linen that I bought seems like good quality for the price. Beware, though, they send lots of e-mails. Many of these are about sales and special prices (good), but they seem to come every other day (bad). I’ll give them another week to see if I have to send them to the spam folder or not.

CLD ACA frontHere’s the finished jacket. I like it a lot – and wish I had lengthened it just a little bit more. You don’t want to go making these really distinctive styles multiple times. When the hemline is all over the place, it’s hard to know where to take your length measurements.

In contrast to the little top, the jacket has a relaxed but neat shoulder/armscye/sleeve draft. If I do make it again, the shoulder could be just a tad narrower.

Maybe the lapels could be made smaller and I could do it again as a button-up top. As designed, there’s a single button and you have the option of making a buttonhole or a loop. I went with the loop and a big vintage mother of pearl button.

CLD ACA backYou can’t see it very well here, but there’s a little pleat running the length of the center back that is very cute.

One of the good things about sewing is that we get to define our own goalposts, and move them whenever we like. Much as I like the CLD patterns, the ones with the very square shoulders look pretty sloppy on me. Shoulder pads would fix that, but that’s not going to happen for everyday wear. It occurs to me that what I need are three different blocks so I can refine the fit of the shoulder and sleeves, and use them to modify the patterns. A dolman block, a drop-shoulder block, and a slightly-extended shoulder block ought to cover my needs for these relaxed styles.

Paco Peralta’s dolman draft fit me beautifully, so I’ll use it for the dolman styles.

For the slightly-extended shoulder, I can use this jacket (with the shoulder narrowed a bit) or the jacket from another CLD pattern, Pure and Simple (it’s out of print).

That just leaves the drop-shoulder, and I may look to Burda for a solution. Will need to examine some of the other CLD patterns to compare the shaping of the sleeve caps for styles that fall into this category.

So, a little project is born – I need to prove to myself that I can make those pattern modifications and that they will turn out the way I want them to. I’ll report on the results.

The jacket in this post was made on this machine…



7 thoughts on “A Cute Angle

  1. Very nice jacket! Thanks for the report on the blouse. So many times I only sew one of the two designs included in the pattern. Also, love your vintage Rockateer! A great machine!

  2. This is such a pretty jacket. I like the length quite a lot, especially like that the hem is uneven. The eye does not travel across the hem as it would if it were straight across. I made this a while back but made the shoulders too wide. I also don’t like shoulder pads for casual wear so maybe I’ll rethink this in a more narrow shoulder. Thanks for this helpful post. And the sewing machine is so sweet.

  3. Robyn I like this look on you and think that all you need is a good set of shoulder pads to make it fit in the shoulders. On my unlined jackets I cover & use velcro like Loes Hinse recommends so you can remove them. To get the fit I wanted in the ACA jacket, I cut an XS in the shoulders/sleeves and the small on the bottom but I still need to wear shoulder pads in it. I’ve been thinking about eliminating the sleeves and collar and making the jacket as a vest – dropping the armholes as well. I made my ACA tops in size small all over.

  4. That jacket looks good on you Robyn, shoulder pads may possibly help but it is fine as it is. The hem is really nice – I love the uneven finish.
    But what I really like is your machine! Great to see these old girls getting used 🙂

  5. Indoor activities – Don’t limit physical play to outdoors, if it’s raining and your children need to
    play, make a den out of cushions and sheets in the lounge, turn the
    bed into a boat or play a physical game like balloon volleyball.
    This extreme matching is only cute for so long so take advantage
    of it while you can (if teens or adults try this they look like a clown).
    Now, on the final box, write the words “To be tossed”.

    baby girl rompers

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