When browsing Farmhouse Fabrics I found a listing for handkerchief linen with several different co-ordinating stripes of white and natural. That is one of my favorite color combinations and I knew I wanted to make something that would use two of them for some subtle low-contrast contrast. I also needed a lightweight summer jacket for those air conditioned places.
I bought enough fabric so that I could line whatever pattern I chose to the edge. That in effect makes a reversible fabric, and two layers of handkerchief linen is a good weight for a summer jacket. The Anything But Ordinary jacket from Cutting Line Designs is a nice simple design that goes together easily and made handling the two layers almost trouble free.
Cutting: I eliminated the center back seam and shortened the sleeves to bracelet length. The two layers were cut exactly the same, except that the collar was cut only from the stripe that was being used as the contrast side.
- Sew the shoulder and side seams of the inner and outer bodies separately.
- Construct the collar
- Attach the collar by sandwiching it between the inner and outer body layers and stitching the neckline seam.
- Right sides together, stitch all around the outer edges of the jacket: center fronts and hems. Turn right side out through an armhole.
- Construct the inner and outer sleeves.
- Right sides together, stitch the sleeve hem edge. Turn.
- Press under the seam allowance of the inner sleeve cap.
- Stitch the outer sleeve cap to both layers of the body.
- Attach the inner sleeve cap by hand.
- I decided to stitch in the ditch at the side seams through all the layers to give the hint of structure I would have gotten from underlining.
In all cases, I trimmed the seam allowances so the inner layer was not as wide as the outer layer. And when sewing the outside edges, I skootched the inside layer away from the edge so that the seam allowance for the inside was only 3/8 of an inch, while the outside layer was 5/8. It’s a bad look when your lining is too short and pulls on the outer layer.
Here is how the collar and the sleeve cuff look, showing the subtle contrast between the layers. I will probably always wear the sleeves turned up to 3/4 length.
My pressing is not perfect, but this piece will probably never be pressed again! Rumpled linen suits me fine.
When trying on the jacket and deciding on the buttons, I liked the look all buttoned up to the neck, even though realistically I would not wear a jacket that way. But I think I will make this pattern again soon as a loose shirt and make it button all the way up.
Happy summer sewing to any readers!