Ottobre Autumn Palette

Otto Autumn PaletteAnother Ottobre shirt. For this one, I went back in the archives to find a shirt without front darts. This is model #18 from the 5/2014 issue. I wanted dartless because I wasn’t sure how they would act with the pintucked bib.

A few months back, I got interested in finding some hemp fabrics to try. This 6 oz. denim came from Mood, so it was an easy one to order. Most of the other sources I found were wholesale types, or Canadian. Some of those Canadian Etsy vendors have some yummy-looking goods, so I will probably try some of them later this year. I’m guessing that laws in the USA make selling hemp a little complicated.

The mood fabric is available in three different shades of blue. I ordered the darkest, indigo, because at first I thought I would make some drapey pants. (These photos have all been lightened so they don’t just look like dark blobs.) When it came, though, it seemed just a little too lightweight. Browsing the internet I saw denim shirts with pintucked fronts, and thought that would be a nice change from a plain front.

Otto Autumn Palette pintucksThere were a few changes made to the pattern. First, I decided that I wanted an applied bib front, rather than pintucks that were released or ran the length of the front. The bib is shaped with the bottom at an angle – longer at the center and shorter at the sindes. It seemed like a separate button band would be the best way to handle the center front, because there was a definite difference between the front and back of the fabric, and I wanted the seamlines and topstitching. So the right front was converted to a button band. The left has a cut-on facing. Of course, the pockets were left off, and I shortened the body 7 inches. Again, used real sleeve plackets instead of a binding.

This is a very loose fitting style with dropped shoulders. The sleeve caps are somewhat flattened, but not enough for me to fell the armscye. Maybe a better sewer could do that. I fake-felled that one, even though the others are felled Otto Autumn Palette backfor real.

The back is gathered, like the original pattern.

The hemp fabric was just as easy to work with as cotton or linen. One interesting finding: I got the best pressing with a dry iron. This particular hemp has a very nice drape and a silky feel. It will be really nice to wear.

So nice, in fact, that now I’m thinking about ordering another length and making the pants I had in mind in the first place. Two things are giving me pause: the indigo dye from this piece came off on my hands, ironing board cover, everywhere. I’ll wash the shirt a few more times with some vinegar and see if that helps. The other little problem is that the fabric is so silky that it snags. That’s not something you would expect from denim. But it feels so good, I can’t help but think about it.

OK, I have three new shirts now. Nice!

8 thoughts on “Ottobre Autumn Palette

  1. I always love your classic shirts and the pin tucks make this even better. Thanks for the details on the hemp. I’ve never sewn it. Is it like rayon?

  2. If vinegar doesn’t do the trick soak it in cool water with 1/2 cup of salt. What vinegar won’t set usually salt will.
    Love the shirt!

  3. That looks so nice. Love anything denim. Snagging is a little concerning. I usually wash something that continues to shed dye with like colors for awhile. That’s the way I do laundry anyway so no big deal. Enjoy your new tops.

  4. Robyn, i’m So I impressed. Your pintucks are meticulous, and I appreciated the details you gave on changing the pattern!

  5. The pin tucks give a beautiful textural detail to that shirt. I haven’t used hemp – I was told that it absorbs moisture well which is fine but I live in a largely cold damp climate – but your description makes it sound very appealing. It sounds as though it will be gorgeous to wear. Enjoy!

    • I only have one other hemp garment to compare it to, a pair of pants, and that fabric is like homespun. Totally different! They have been my gardening pants for almost 8 years and they wear like iron.

  6. There are a couple of products that help stop dye bleeding. One is Retayne for natural fibers. Some quilt shops carry it.

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